The Topsham Ten ... 9
Pubs in Topsham, near Exeter, Devon.
Topsham map

When visiting, please treat the pubs and town responsibly. Thanks!

The Bridge visited!

B: The Bridge
Atmosphere: The one the Queen visited, views over Clyst River. Ancient building with pre-WW2 rural pub decor. No bar: service from a passage door or small internal window. Two rooms, one with open fireplace, plus riverside seating, Malthouse, and invitation-only parlour. Note the opening hours (12-2pm lunchtimes and 6-10.30pm, 6-11pm Fri/Sat, 7-10.30pm Sun). Malthouse: summer and special events.
.Beer: CAMRA-recommended free house, large and changing choice of British real ales from the barrel.
Games: No.
Food: Ploughman's, pasties, crisps.

Steam Packet visited!

St: The Steam Packet
Atmosphere: Massively under-rated pub by the quay. Comfortable and well-kept, always with a peaceful and friendly atmosphere, this is the oldest purpose-built pub in Topsham. Interesting deco glass-and-wood walls just inside the entrance. One long public bar, and an atmospheric lounge with kitchen range, dining tables and nautical memorabilia.
Beer: excellent, including well-kept Bass, Wadworth 6X and Adnams.
Games: darts, fruit machine.
Food: pub lunches (excellent English menu - roast lunches etc), coffee, varied crisps, snacks, etc. They'll do hot pies and pasties right up to closing time; the only pub in Topsham to do this.

Saffron/Denley's visited!

De: Denley's
Atmosphere: Nice minimalist wine bar style - moody lighting, lots of glass and mirrors - with plenty of seating round the open-plan bar. Can be crowded on the frequent music nights (there's a talent night every Thursday), but otherwise it's middling busy - enough customers for friendliness without being excessively packed.
Beer: Branoc, Summathat, nicely kept; Cobra.
Games: No.
Food:Essence of India (formerly Saffron) is at the rear of the premises, a 150-seat restaurant (one of the largest Indian restaurants in Devon): it won the Exeter Curry Chef award for 2007. There is customer car parking at the nearby Rugby Club on the Exeter Road. If you don't want to eat in Saffron itself, an excellent and inexpensive range of its hot snacks (chicken shaslik, tikka, poppadums, kebab, etc) can be ordered from the bar.

The Salutation visited!

S: The Salutation
Atmosphere: Very nice coaching inn frontage (the arch provides covered smoking area). Divided bar at front: bar, front room, open-plan snug, darts area. Restaurant at rear, paved beer garden (lovely in summer) at side. Currently (March 2008) new management have settled well - "new menu, new style" - check it out.
Beer: good standard range, Bass or Speckled Hen real ale.
Games and entertainments: Darts, pool, e-jukebox, TV music channel on sometimes. Hosts frequent live music.
Food: Lunches, nice bar menu: nachos, home made burgers, haddock smokie, etc, with pleasantly refurbished .
WWW: Eat Out Devon entry

Drakes visited!

Dr: Drakes Wine and Ale House
Atmosphere: Very popular, friendly (and often very crowded) 'mixers' pub that attracts varied customers, although local sports fans congregate here for major televised events. Main bar subdivided by rockery-style pillar fireplace, snugs at front. Regular live acoustic music on Friday evenings.
Beer: excellent real ales. Otter, London Pride, alongside a good general range.
Games: darts (tournaments hosted), pool table, TV projector for sports events. New WiFi games machine and jukebox.
Food: Upstairs: Kaptan's Indian Cuisine: open evenings as restaurant and takeaway: beautiful wood-panelled dining room, with adjacent lounge with comfortable deep sofas. Drakes also does a broad mainstream menu from 11am-3pm: all-day breakfasts, home-cooked-style lunch specials, etc.

The Passage visited!

P: The Passage House
(usually just called The Passage)
Atmosphere: One of the 'river pubs'. Friendly pub which over the past few years has encouraged a varied clientele rather than the fusty yachts-and-money set of a some years back. In summer, you can sit outside, either by the street or in a paved dining area by the river (nicer at high tide; mosquito bites can be a problem). Fireplace in winter. If the weather's not so good, the single central bar can get crowded, but overspill to table seating in the restaurant areas is no problem outside dining times.
Beer: Various real ales straight from the barrel, including Otter, Flowers IPA, Adnam's Broadside.
Games: None.
Food: Popular two-room restaurant with fresh local fish a speciality.

Exeter Inn visited!

E: The Exeter
Atmosphere: Since mid-2004, the Exeter has been under new management, who have vastly tidied up its external and internal decor. Despite the thatched roof, I think the only one remaining in Topsham, this is a comfortable modern-style pub with one long room divided into bar and pool table sections. A friendly locals' pub at the Exeter end of Topsham, it's essentially a rural pub that has evolved, with the latest technology but a continuing active community. Covered outdoor smoking area.
Beer: I highly recommend the Exeter's beers. The current landlord is enthusiastic about real ales - Teignworthy Beachcomber is regular, with two others always on, in an excellent and changing selection - and the Exeter has just gained a well-deserved entry in the 2008 Good Beer Guide.
Games: Pool, darts, Euchre (a card game traditional in Devon), games machine, and big-screen TV for sports events.
Food: Good range of pub snacks, etc..

Lord Nelson visited!

Lo: The Lord Nelson
Important note: this is a 'pub restaurant' only! They won't serve you a drink unless you're having a meal.
Atmosphere: Despite the sign, the Nelson is in essence a licensed restaurant. It's rather fashionable to scorn the Lord Nelson, but not everyone wants to eat in a ordinary pub. Taking it at face value, as a polished open-plan Berni-style restaurant with a very cosy atmosphere and wide repertoire, it does what it does very well. It couldn't be handier for the bus, and has a big customer-only car park.
Beer: Good, I hear; I had wine when I ate there.
Games: obviously not.
Food: Varied menu, mostly English-style, including a well-presented carvery. Excellent-value daily specials (take a doggie bag - the portions are colossal).

The Globe visited!

G: The Globe
Atmosphere: Very nice traditional general-purpose pub, a coaching inn. A small entrance bar, a sitting bar further in, a large wood-panelled back room, a dining section, and a beer garden, sort of (outside tables, some in a covered alcove, in an area partitioned off from the car park). Service is very friendly. Big fireplaces lit in winter. Folk Club on Sundays.
Beer: CAMRA-recommended. The regulars, Bass and Doom Bar from Sharps, are always good, as is the changing choice of West Country guest beers.
Games: They have dominoes if you want; there's also a skittles alley, hireable for functions only.
Food: Extremely good, large range, traditional English meats with Continental influences (restaurant section, or table snacks).

Lighter Inn visited!

Li: The Lighter
Atmosphere: Good: very popular spacious pub, wood-panelled, with eating sections. Summer is especially nice, when you can sit at the outside tables on the Quay. At daytimes, it's handy for the quay bus terminus and Antiques Centre. It can be very crowded at weekends. But it's spacious enough to accommodate everyone, and overall it's an extremely friendly and pleasant pub to drink in.
Beer: Good real ale range, varying with season, from Badger Brewery: Badger Best, K&B Sussex, Fursty Ferret, Tanglefoot, etc.
Games: Fruit machines.
Food: Cooked meals, buffet and sandwiches (I've not yet tried any).

When visiting, please treat the town responsibly. Thanks!

There are three other pubs associated with Topsham:

The Turf is on the opposite side of the Exe.  By the lock to the Exeter Canal, it has a large garden and is popular in the summer months for pub lunches (the food is good and varied) when the Topsham-Turf Ferry runs from Trout's boatyard. There are also summer evening cruises).  Alternatively, also in summer only, you could catch the Topsham Lock ferry (opposite the Passage) and walk there along the canal path - but check the ferry times to make sure you can get back.
The George and Dragon, about a mile from Topsham, folksy beams and stone floors, a beer garden and good food (follow the Exmouth road across the bridge, and the pub is at the A376 roundabout).  There's also the Blue Ball Inn near the Exeter end of the Clyst Road (this runs from Topsham railway crossing to the M5 Junction 30); this also has nice traditional decor, stone floors, and good beer.  I haven't checked these out in detail, though.

Visit Topsham.org, Topsham's official town website, for more about Topsham itself.

Updated March 3rd 2008. Note that these reviews are based partly on my visits (as a Real Ale drinker, I have an obvious bias toward this aspect) and partly on opinions of others, such as visitors. If you disagree with anything factual, freel free to contact me: ray@raygirvan.co.uk

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